Purchasing a Cage

Photo by @ollietheparrot

Before starting this post, I want to thank everyone who has supported my idea of starting an educational blog on parrots. I hope this blog will provide you with fun and mostly useful information that will help both new and experienced parrot owners out there. I decided to start off with a is basic and yet very important subject: housing, as parrots require a lot from a cage for physical and psychological well being.

1. Size

The first thing to keep in mind when chosing a cage is it's size. The appropriate size depends on the type of parrot and the numbers in which they are kept, but there are a few rules that apply to all.

• The cage needs to be at least able to hold a parrot with fully stretched wings, without touching the bars.

• The cage should allow for the parrot to turn around without touching the bars.

• The cage needs enough space for a decent amount of perches.

• The cage needs enough space to include a few toys.

• The parrot has to be able to pass around and in between his toys.

• The more time your parrot spends inside his cage, the bigger it should be.

• Width is more important than height since parrots fly side to side, not up and down. Cages especially made for this purpose are called flight cages.

Not following these minimal guidelines may cause physical injuries and weakened muscles because the parrot can not excersize properly within his cage. Parrots can also start developing behavioral problems like plucking, aggressiveness and even depression if they don't live in a healthy environment. Keeping the toys in mind is very important, it is easy to overestimate the size of an unfurnished cage when seeing it online or in a store. If cages are unfurnished at pet stores, try filling them up to get a better impression. A smaller cage, without neglecting the basic needs of your parrot, can be used as a travel cage, if your parrot is out during the majority of the day or if his cagedoor is always open.

Below you can find a cage size guide that includes a few popular parrot species. If your bird is not among them, try looking for species with the same physical attributes. Minimum cage size are the absolute smallest size of cage your bird can live in, it is NOT the recommended size. The cage will become a home, so besides simply following these guidelines, try to find the biggest cage you can afford.

While tinier parrots like lovebirds and budgies definitely need less space than big parrots such as macaws, the size of your bird vs the size of your cage doesn't follow a liniar line. While all parrots in general are known to be very playfull, tiny parrots are often more hyperactive and very energetic. For them to be able to excersize and lose all this energy during the day, a large cage is needed. For example, compared to their size, budgies will need 2 a 3 times more space than a cockatiel.

The more parrots you want to keep in the same cage, the bigger it should also be. However, stuffing a cage with budgies untill it's full isn't an option. All parrots should be able to perch and play in peace. Just like humans, birds are living beings with different personalities and needs. Some need some quite time during the day and seperate themselves from others. Some won't get along, either all the time or during mating season where birds get very territorial and agressive. Therefor, take the time to consider the best option depending on your situation. You can either go for very large voliers that will be able to host multiple individual parrots or couples, or you can seperate them in smaller cages but in the same room. It is in general not adviced to mix different parrot species. Outside the cage they might get along perfectly but due to the territorial behaviour in birds, mixing big and small, or agressive and non- agressive species inside a cage could lead to some discomfort for the parrots or even injury. Larger parrots are always better off having their own cage, but that is a topic for later.

2. Materials

People seem to underestimate the importance of the different materials used in birdcages. There is a vast variability of materials used on the market, but it is more extreme in smaller bird cages where cost is more often primary consideration. Since smaller parrots can exert less strenght with their beak, there are also fewer demands placed on the structural intergrity of their cages compared to larger parrots. Larger parrots require stronger materials which usually translates into more costly materials and therefor a more trustworthy cage. Unfortunately, not all cages on the market use materials that are safe for birds or that are durable. Therefor, I highly advice not to skimp on cage quality because of the price. Find the highest quality cage you can afford within your budget. A high quality cage will not only be more safe but it should also last you and your bird for years to come. Try to search for reputed brands that have been around for at least a few years, such as Montana or Strong. You can not always recognise the materials used in a cage by just looking at it, so take the time to research different options and look for reviews.

One of the most common materials used to make bird cages is steel. Regardless of how the carbon steel is produced, it will oxidize very easily if left untreated. This is why it must be finished with an anticorrosive material to prevent oxidation. There are a few different ways this can be done.

Stainless steel

The best way to prevent corrosion and add strengh is by adding chromium and nickel, which creates stainless steel. Stainless steel is mostly used in cages for medium and big parrots since it is very durable, which is important given their imense strength. Stainless steel cages are extremely safe and longlasting, easy to maintain but also one of the more expensive options. It is very hard to find medium sized stainless steel cages.

Powder coating

Nowadays, most cages available for medium sized parrots use powder coated steel. Some of the original powder coating formulas contained high levels of zinc, however, nowadays most formulas in use have eliminated the need for zinc. This is the safest type of painted cages and they can be very durable if manufactured properly. It also enables different colors so you can make the cage blend in with your home decor. Many big brands such a Montana guarantee all their cages are produced with lead and zinc free Avilon powder coated finish. It is also very hard material so parrots can not damage it with their beaks.

Galvanized wire (under coating)

While powder coated steel is the safest type of painted cage, some manufacturers sell powder coated galvanized wire cages as an inexpensive alternative. The process of galvanizing can leave traces of zinc and other metals on the wire, which can be very dangerous to your bird. Sometimes it also poses an increased risk of zinc comsuption due to the preparation for the powder coating. This involves roughening the surface for the paint to stick, however, this roughening can pit the galvanized surface and result in irregularities. There is a chance that with time, the paint will start fo flake. These paint flakes can contain high levels of zinc that originate from the galvanizing and can be deadly if ingested by your parrot. Many people mistakenly think that treating galvanized wire with vinegar will remove any risk of zinc ingestion. While vinegar will dissolve small, oxidized deposits, it will not remove the zinc coating from the wire.

Electro-plated steel wire

While other methods are ideal, less expensive methods of preventing corrosion are commonly used in bird cages designed for smaller birds. The most commonly used method involves electro-plating steel wire with an inexpensive metal, which is most commonly done using zinc. Some manufacturers will layer different metals over the steel to achieve the desired result. The bars of such cages are usually a shiny silver or golden color. Electrostatically applied plating is unlikely to be consumed by a bird as long as the finish is smooth. However, once the cage gets older and shows signs of oxidation, pitting, loss of sheen, or white rust, the cage should be immediatly replaced.

Acrylic

These cages have their own distinct pros and cons. They are designed for optimal visibility and reduced mess since less debry can fall out on the sides. However, they contain no horizontal bars (although some now add a wire climbing wall). They ave reduced ventilation and climate control, and are extremely expensive. Many people complain they get easily damaged with scratches and get foggy after cleaning them a few times. Acrylic cages can be used for display, shows or carry cages but people are arguing their efficienty as a regular, day to day cage. Some even claim they are mostly made for human convenience, not parrot needs.

Finally, the other material often used in the bottom of bird cages is plastic since it is safe and easy to clean. There are some artistic cages on the market made out wood but I highly disadvise those. Not only is wood very difficult to clean, it also absorbs moist which makes it harder to dry which can cause it to grow fungus.

3. Round vs. squared

While round cages are still vastly available on the market, many avian experts disadvice getting one. It is recommended to stick with square and rectangle shaped cages since they are more efficient in many ways.

• A square or rectangle cage is easier to positionate in your home and eventually stack on top of other cages.

• Many round cages seen at pet stores (with a few exceptions) are often too small to host any kind of parrot.

• Round cages lack corners, which can cause the parrot to feel insecure. They like going there for cosyness but also when they want to hide after being scared. A round cage takes that ability to hide away so they don't feel safe.

• Round cages make it harder for parrots to climb around.

• Round cages make it hard for parrots to perceive the distance between them and the bars of the cage since their eyes are positionated on the side of their head. This can cause claustrofobia.

• Watch out for odd angles and shapes since those can trap toes, create unused space and make cleaning and accessing the cage a nightmare.

4. Bottom grate or not

Both cages with and without a bottom grate are sold on the market and it has both benefits and cons. This feature keeps your birds from picking at dropped food and feces, as well as the substrate so it is definitely very hygenic. However, it makes the ground less accessible since it is uncomfortable for parrots to walk on it. Especially for (smaller) parrots who love spending time on the ground and for which te ground is extra playing space, having a grate can be an obstacle. For example, my lovebirds love playing with their ball on the ground, dig in their wood etc. Because of this, I chose to keep buying cages without a grate. However, it also means that I have to clean the cage and/or the bedding more regularly. This is a consideration you have to make, based on your parrot's behaviour.

5. Bars orientation and spacing

The spacing of the bars is an extremely important factor to consider when choosing a cage. Inappropriate sized spacing may cause dangerous situations. For example, your bird might get his wings, beak, neck, or other part of its body caught between the bars. Bars with too much spacing compared to your bird's size, can also make it harder for them to climb around correctly since their feet can not always wrap around the bars correctly. For the exact same reason, it is important for parrots to have bars oriented horizontally as this allows them to use their beak and feet to climb. For non-parrots like finches and canaries, the orientation of the bars is not as important. Larger parrots will also require thicker bars to keep them from destroying it with their imense strengh. Following, you can find a guide for the recommended bar spacing for different parrot species.

If anyone has anything to add, please send me an e-mail via the 'about' page!